06/01/2021
Those who know me well, will be very aware of my very personal relationship with Chenin Blanc. It is a grape that I have tasted and studied more than any other, and it continues to this day to fascinate me.
Chenin Blanc's "home-turf" is in the Loire Valley. A region that for many years was often ignored by wine professionals. Many of them rather seeking the grand vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy, so the Loire remained a bit of a backwater region for many years. Recently however it has come back into the light and offered up styles of wine with exceptional depth of flavour and value for money.
We'll be heading to Anjou, a small town bang smack in the middle of the Loire, and home to some of (in my view) the worlds greatest Chenin Blancs.
Chenin Blanc can often be described as "misunderstood". It has a rather high acidity, with this crescendo like character to it, its a very gradual feel. Even when the grapes have been turned into a sweet wine, the freshness is still there - just awesome!
La Grange Aux Belles are based in Anjou, and have been certified Biodynamic since 2011, with the vineyards spread over 5 communes, mostly within the AOP Coteaux de l’Aubance.
It all began for them in 2004 when Marc Houtin was visiting Alsace and saw what the vigneron were doing there. He quickly decided to leave his life behind in the oil business and started growing vines. The estate went Organic in 2005.
The Chenin Blanc, 'Fragile', 2018 is made from 45 year old Organic Vines, which have been hand harvested, with direct pressing, and very little sulphur added before bottling.
The wine itself, its fresh, vibrant and alive. It has all the hallmarks of a typical Chenin from this region; bruised apples, pears, saffron and this delightful floral aroma too. Its dry, zesty, with a searing minerality, and that acidity that just keeps on giving.
Available from Sevslo Wine - https://sevslowine.com
Photo courtesy of Sevslo Wine