When California comes calling!!!
When one decides it’s about time (as a Sommelier) to finally make the pilgrimage to what is arguably one of the most renowned wine regions in the world, one must consider what is to be expected of such a trip.
Napa Valley & Sonoma County are both world renowned for their prestigious vineyards filled with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I cannot lie when I say that I felt a slight sense of trepidation upon arriving in San Francisco for the first time after an 11.5 hour flight from London (which I might add included some lovely complimentary bubbles from Hattingley Valley in the galley of the first class galley of the Airbus A380, courtesy of British Airways when they found out the purpose of our trip)…. Nevertheless, my partner and I were looking forward to a week of sunshine and “serious” wine tasting.
Napa Valley is located just north of San Francisco (about an hour to exact) and is about and hours drive from end to end. The sprawling vineyards are a complete patchwork of different shades of green, dotted with tiny wineries who make some rather delicious numbers.
Having sorted out several visits prior to our arrival in California, it can be tricky not to get carried away with the vast number of offerings to try during a 3-day visit. 2 of the highlights in Napa however were a complete contrast to each other; Harlan Estate and Ashes & Diamonds.
Harlan Estate is one of those jewels in a crown of many in the world of wine; impossible to resist and intriguing enough to keep you wanting to come back for another look. Dreamt of by Will Harlan back in the 1980’s, this beautiful location is situated in the hillsides overlooking Oakville. The 40-hectare vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The minimalistic, “let the land do the talking” approach was inspiring. We arrived (after getting lost a couple of times I might add) to be welcomed very great fully to some delicious Krug NV, which was surreptitiously poured for us before we took in the view on a gorgeous summer’s afternoon.
We had arrived (coincidentally) during the harvest which gave me a rare chance to see a winery in full production mode, and what a sight it was – the aromas of crushed grapes, wood, soils etc… is a mecca for any sommelier and I loved every second of it. After a quick barrel tasting down in the cellar’s we were treated to a tasting of the 2014 vintage of Harlan Estate. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot was sensual. A deeply scented blend of deep cassis, cocoa, coffee and walnut, sage, dried herbs, subtle tannins, all combined with the hallmark characters that one would expect from a winery of this level.
Towards the end of the week we visited a winery who’s wine I knew rather well but had never visited; Ashes & Diamonds. Upon arrival I was surprised to find not a traditional winery but something that almost seemed out of place and had a sense of drama and theatre about it – I was certainly intrigued from the start.
Ashes & Diamonds was the brainchild of former Capitol Records executive Kashy Khaledi and came into being in 2014. Alongside famed winemaker Steve Matthiasson, this certainly is an estate to watch. They source grapes from all over Napa and even further south, paying homage to wines of yesteryear and creating a style that is certainly unique.
One of the first wines that they brought out for us to taste was the 2018 Rose made from 100% Napa grown Cabernet Franc (Los Carneros, Oak Knoll District and Yountville). I cannot deny that I had a few misgivings upon first sight of this rose. These however were certainly quashed upon tasting. This beautifully pale rose (due to Saignée & whole cluster press methods) was a work of art. The wine has seen 9 months in stainless steel before bottling with 350 cases produced! Ripe/Crunchy red fruits; cherries, strawberries and cranberries all mixed with a hint of cloves, tarragon and slightly floral too. The wine is super fresh, mouth-watering and lingers on the palate whilst it waits for you to take your next sip. I was so hooked in-fact that I called up the UK importer upon my return to the UK and now have some on their way to Henrock by Simon Rogan in the new year.
The trip to California was truly an inspiring adventure that allowed me to re-think what California is all about and thus offer it to my guests at Henrock – I cannot wait to see what more exciting wines are coming from this region in the future.
Published in https://chefpublishing.com/ in October 2019